The Curse of the Good Looking
The things that make Wicker Park Tavern so inviting are also the things that make it so off-putting.
A redwood and mahogany bar, gorgeous hardwood floors, floor to ceiling windows that open to the street, and one of the best locations in all of Wicker Park, right on six corners, make Wicker Park Tavern quite attractive. But as any good looking person will tell you, the kind of people you attract is not always your choice, even if you try to present yourself in a way that communicates what you’re looking for.
Although it seems to have been going for a cool, upscale vibe when it first took over from Borderline Tap a couple of years ago, WP Tavern now fights the perception that’s it’s just another noisy Lincoln Park type bar with unremarkable food, flat screen TVs and indifferent service. The amber-lit panels and leather couches that were once meant to evoke a loungy feel have given way to rowdy crowds, throbbing music and menacing bouncers. The couch cushions are ripped, the amber light panels are lost in the throng, and the free peanuts (a charming feature when it first opened) have been removed, probably due to some drunken tomfoolery.
Two of the best things about Wicker Park Tavern, its 4am license and its no cover policy, are also its downfall. The number of drunken jerks who show up after 2am make it virtually impossible to maintain any kind of dignified equanimity and requires plenty of muscle. Not exactly the relaxed ambiance of an upscale lounge.
In the afternoons, WP Tavern starts off its day as a sports bar with eight flat screen TV’s and $1 burgers until 6pm. In spite of the fact that they are using the kitchen of the wonderful Cafe Absinthe next door, the food is run-of-the-mill. The drinks are about what you would expect. The crowd seems to be made up largely of former Lincoln Parkers and young commodity brokers hooting over touchdowns. In an attempt to lure in more of the same they have decided to become prep boosters, waving the flag of Michigan State and casting the stink eye at the U of M boosters down the street at Cans.
As day gives way to night, the Chads and Trixies come out in force and by 11am the place is packed so tightly you can hardly move. Getting a drink spilled on you is virtually guaranteed, and woe betide you should you need to use the bathroom. The music is provided via a satellite juke box which means any schmo with a $5 bill can program the night’s entertainment. The volume is loud, the impenetrability of the crowd is aggravating, and then the drunkenness starts. Things reach a fever pitch about 2am when other bars disgorge their patrons. Scuffles break out. Bouncers wade in. Jostling and elbowing ensues. This is fun?
The things that make Wicker Park Tavern so inviting, its great location, its openness to the street, its warm wood accoutrements, its late night hours, are also attractive to anybody else that happens by, so if you linger too long, things can get close, uncomfortable and messy. Even if you are white, tanned and from a Big 10 school.
But some people don't mind this. A good many of them have been hanging out in Lincoln Park for the past couple of decades. Now they are moving here.
Once upon a time, Wicker Parkers warned that before long Wicker Park would look just like Lincoln Park. At least as far as the Wicker Park Tavern is concerned they weren't wrong.
Wicker Park Tavern
1958 W. North Ave.
773-278-5138
Hrs: Su-Fr 4 p.m.-4 a.m., Sa 4pm-5am
Features: Late night hours, food until 10pm, free Wifi