Babylon Eatery does some things well and some things not so good and what it all adds up to is good old middle of the road, fair to midland average. It’s not a big yawn; there are some exciting things going on here. But two steps forward and two steps back doesn’t move you very far off the mark.
Take the vegetarian sampler platter which consists of falafel balls, dolma and hummus. The falafel balls, half-dollar sized buttons of chick peas, onions, parsley and spices were bursts of fried yumminess, but the hummus was a bit watery and the dolma was missing in action. When we inquired as to the missing dolma we were told they had run out, so they’d substituted with more falafel balls. Leaving aside the question of how a Middle Eastern restaurant can run out of dolma, the sum of what we had been given amounted to a great big bunch of average.
The chicken and lamb kebab promised big things when the moist grilled chicken met our tongues, but lost it on the next bite when the lamb chunks proved gristly, rubbery and hard to swallow. The dish redeemed itself with the savory, delicately seasoned rice, but lost it again when the tomato stew seemed like little more than Campbell’s tomato soup with fried onions and green peppers floating in it. The shawarma was decent and the side sauces of tahini and chili sauce were a nice enhancement but the pita bread had nothing to recommend it. Taking the long way around, we wound up at the same old ordinary place known as Average.
The ambiance at Babylon reveals a similar tendency to pique interest and then draw it back. The black and red awning suggests something intriguing within, and an initial glimpse inside the brightly colored room reveals sexy pendant lights and padded, fabric covered stools as well as a column of shelves displaying ornate hookahs, but then one notices that the walls are bare, the tables have metal napkin dispensers as their most prominent features, and a utilitarian drink cooler emblazoned with a Coca Cola logo is the central element of the decor, communicating that if you thought this was anything more than a mere take out place you were probably mistaken.
The service was dicey. We had a waitress in training whose tendency to drop things didn’t bode well for her future in the trade, and although we were the only other customers in the place, she seemed surprised on occasion to find us there. This can be forgiven, however, as it was apparently her first night ever as a server, but other reviewers have mentioned slipshod service at Babylon. Just as many, it seems, as those who thought the service was great. Which brings us back to – you guessed it – average.
The only trouble with being an average restaurant in WP/BT is that it can make things difficult if your competitors offer the same fare at the same price with a higher degree of competency, and your customers find out. At this stage Babylon may want to step it up a bit. Yes, Babylon is better than mediocre; but in this neighborhood being merely average can be a distinct detriment.
Babylon Eatery
2023 N. Damen Ave.
773-342-7482 / Reservations Not Accepted
Hours: M-Th 10:30am-10pm; F-Sa 10:30am-2am; Su 11am-9pm
Avg price of a meal for two including drinks and tax $34
Features: Outdoor Dining, BYOB, Late Kitchen, Carryout, Delivery
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