The handsome red-draped room at Café Matou beckons you to a feast of Cuisine Bourgeoisie, an intriguing combination of the French classical method and the country French tradition. Chef Charlie Socher, a French trained Chicago native who cut his teeth at Ambria and earned his stripes at The Chardonnay, uses seasonal ingredients to create a daily menu that promises the sublime yet delivers good quality French food on a par with other good French restaurants in the city.
The service – like the restaurant itself – is competent and reliable. The atmosphere is warm and comfortable. The wine list is eclectic with an appropriate focus on small French producers. Yet the only thing that would make you laud Café Matou over a half dozen other good French bistros in the city is the price, which is surprisingly low given the quality of the cuisine. In addition, Café Matou distinguishes itself with the singularity of its offerings. It's menu changes regularly with the availability of the best ingredients.
Bearing that in mind, you might expect to be bowled over. We were not.
Although everything we had was well prepared and worth the price, not everything stood out and nothing inspired acclaim. The roast duckling with pomerol-three peppercorn reduction earned the most points, tender and savory, nicely complemented by its sauce. But the Basque style chicken braised with garlic cloves, chorizo, fresh basel and tomato while respectable failed to impress.
The pan roasted Alaskan halibut fared better. It was flaky and moist and enhanced by a sauce of bacon, mushrooms and fresh herbs. The endive salad also earned a thumbs-up, nicely light with a good balance of the bitter, the sweet and the peppery. But the patès of the day with toast points and Dijon mustard were unremarkable.
For dessert the chocolate sorbet with carmelized bananas was just okay. The bananas were somewhat less than carmelized even though the sorbet was certainly above average.
This tendency toward unevenness suggests that the experience of dining at Café Matou may be different each time you go. Given the fact that Café Matou’s menu is in constant flux, the changeable character of the experience is practically a given.
To be a fair, a return visit to Café Matou could elicit an entirely different response, but for this go around the overall sense is of a skilled and resourceful kitchen that rarely falters but rarely transcends other restaurants of its class.
Café Matou
1846 N. Milwaukee Ave.
773-384-8911 / Reservations Recommended
Hours: T-Th 5pm-10pm; F-Sa 5pm-11pm, Su 5pm-9pm, Closed Monday
Vibe: Romantic
Features: Outdoor Dining
Avg. Price of a Meal for Two Including Drinks and Tax $80
Chef: Charlie Socher
Website: http://cafematou.com
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