I’m left cold by Caoba. Which is not the same thing as saying I dislike it. Caoba is competent at what it does. But that’s about it. Try as I might I can’t get a firm grip on any good reason to recommend Caoba. On the other hand, I wouldn’t want to discourage you from going there if you had a hankering for Mexican food and didn’t want to travel far from Six Points. It’ll do.
For openers try the empanadas, larger than average sized pastry puffs stuffed with beef or spinach and cheese. They're servicable. Or order the queso fundido, melted Chihuahua cheese served in a cazuela poblano and serrano peppers with chorizo or mushrooms. Gooey and palatable, they are nevertheless indistinguishable from the queso fundido found at many other Mexican restaurants.
For the main course we went for the parrillada de carne, a sampler of Mexican style meats, including char grilled steak, baby back ribs, chicken and sausage. The presentation was lovely; the meats were attractively arranged atop a small brazier that looked like a battered strong box from a one-room Mexican bank, and the meats were okay, although the sausage and steak outshone the others. All in all, it was good enough but nothing I would fight over a parking space to get to.
The décor at Caoba is a tad on the Spartan side. The mustard colored walls are hung with sepia-toned photos of 19th century banditos and the wall sconces resemble railway lanterns, a half-hearted attempt at a rustic cantina authenticity and one that’s altogether eclipsed by the presence of several good quality 24” flat screens.
Yes, folks, Caoba has been bitten by the same bug that infects many Wicker Park dining establishments, an identity crisis brought on by the apprehension of being only one thing in a fickle neighborhood that, judging by the number of such conflicted restaurants, demands that you be several things at once. In Caoba’s case it’s striving to double as a sports bar, which drains of it of any authentic Mexican charm and makes it a mediocre sports bar that specializes in decent Mexican food. If that kind of thing appeals to you, by all means hurry down. Otherwise, you might want to look elsewhere.
Caoba
1619 N. Damen Ave.
773-342-2622 / Reservations Accepted
Hours: M-F 4am-12am; Sa 11am-1am; Su 11am-10pm (brunch)
Features: Outdoor Dining, Late Kitchen, Brunch, Live Music, Carryout
Avg price of a meal for two including drinks and tax $70
Website: www.caobachicago.com
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