Nestled in a quiet tree-canopied area at the corner of Wabansia and Honore in Bucktown is an homage to a swinging 40’s era supper club that is more authentic than anything you’ll find in New York or Las Vegas. Club Lucky might be regarded as ersatz if it wasn’t so utterly sincere. There is nothing tongue-in-cheek or Disneylandish about the porthole windows, chrome railings, upholstered booths, colored accent lights or red and black tiles. They have simply taken a classic style and made it current. For that reason, Club Lucky is always refreshing and fun, even if it’s not terribly progressive when it comes to the food.
This lack of interest in culinary progress has resulted in a menu that is fairly predictable. Here’s you'll find your standard pastas: fettucini alfredo, penne arrabiata, linguini and clams. Here’s your typical house specialties: veal parmigana, chicken vesuvio, grilled pork chops. Want something edgier? You can almost hear Frank Sinatra telling you to dummy up and dig in.
If the selection is nothing to get excited about, the execution isn't going to win any prizes either. While in no way flawed or inferior, the food barely rises above the kind of good Italian food served in a diner and most of it can be made at home with a standard Betty Crocker cookbook.
But of course that’s the point. This is not groundbreaking Italian cuisine but the kind of food that hearkens back to an earlier, simpler era when good Italian meant a bowl of spaghetti and a bottle of Chablis in a webbed bottle. Whether or not Club Lucky would do any better or worse with a more adventurous approach is past consideration. Like its décor, its food is meticulously true to the past.
There are, however, a few nods to the present, such as olive oil and parmesan for dipping your bread in, something that wouldn’t have existed in a 1940’s supper club, and bottled effervescent water (back then you would’ve gotten tap water and liked it). And although it’s all perfectly retro, there’s nothing run down or tired looking about Club Lucky. The place is immaculately clean. It’s frequently primped up and repainted and often feels as if you are arriving on the first day of business.
They have a lovely sidewalk café under a black and red awning and while I was there on a recent visit the owner was outside planting geraniums in the flower boxes, chatting with neighbors.
The service can be spotty. On some occasions it’s good, others poor. On our most recent visit the waitress forgot the silverware, and when we pointed it out, she brought the napkins and again forgot the silverware. Finally, we got up and got the silverware ourselves. No big. But certainly nothing that inspire accolades.
At bottom Club Lucky is one of those places that’s so charming and appealing you’re always willing to give them another chance. The food is nothing special and the service is hit and miss, but the minute you walk through the door into that swinging 40’s cocktail lounge, you’re smitten. Have the bartender mix you up a classic martini and fuh-get about it. A ring-a-ding-ding!
Club Lucky
1824 W. Wabansia
773-227-2300 / Reservations Accepted (for 6 or more)
Hours: M-Th 11:30a-11p; F 11:30a-Midnight; Sa 5p-Midnight; Su 4pm-10pm / Cocktails to 2am
Vibe: 40's Lounge
Features: Outdoor Dining, Carryout
Avg. Price of a Meal for two including drinks and tax $70
Website: http://clubluckychicago.com
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