Feast offers an eclectic mash-up of American, Latin, Asian and Italian that is so adventuresome it can be downright perplexing. I have to give serious thought to a dish like chipotle barbecue salmon over corn buttermilk hot cakes with avocado salsa before pulling the trigger. It may be delicious, but it’s so out there that ordering it makes me uneasy. I find myself scanning up and down the menu trying to find something I’m comfortable with. At no restaurant does it take me longer to order than at Feast.
I like inventiveness as much as the next guy but I must admit to being thrown by Feast, and frankly I don’t know why. It may be that I just don’t get excited by what they're putting together, which is strictly a preference thing and should in no way deter anyone else from enjoying the place. In fact, my wife loves Feast, and it’s probably because she has no problem with a menu that puts ancho chili and maple glazed pork chops with sweet potato, roasted corn and jack cheese tacos right next to a vegetarian Thai plate with rice paper rolls, vegetable red curry and jasmine rice. To me it’s jarring, like seeing the aftermath of a collision between a taco truck and a Chinese delivery vehicle.
And there is no refuge from this eclectic mayhem. After awhile I get exhausted trying to make up my mind and want to run screaming to a hamburger. But all they have is an eclectic version of a hamburger, an 8 oz. turkey burger with swiss cheese, carmelized onions and honey mustard. Finally I just give up, close my eyes and point.
If the menu is all over the map, so are the results. My panko crusted chicken with roasted potatoes in lemon caper aioli was stringy and chewy, hot in some places, merely warm in others. But my wife’s marinated skirt steak with garlic mashed potatoes in chimichurri sauce and tobacco onion rings was cooked to perfection and delicious. At least now I know what I’ll order next time.
The food presentation is artful and fun, as is the décor. The ambiance at Feast is festive with sage green walls, melon colored drapes and party colored ogee lamps. The sidewalk dining and patio areas are accented in purple and each table has a red hurricane lamp. The interior has a horizontal footprint, which is unusual in this neighborhood where most establishments are narrow and deep. The modernist bar area provides plenty of room for mingling and there’s a sofa and chairs beside a fireplace in a little nook by the front window that’s particularly cozy in winter.
The emphasis is on wine, of which there are 50 listed by the bottle or the glass. The beer is not even listed, although they have a selection of good quality brews in bottles, as well as a full bar. The service at Feast is prompt and reliable. The fact is, there are many good things here.
Even though I applaud inventiveness and variety in other restaurants, it somehow rubs me the wrong way at Feast. But that's probably just me. Try Feast yourself and decide. Other reviewers have been very favorable. You will probably not be disappointed.
Feast
1616 N. Damen
773-772-7100 / Reservations Accepted (not for brunch)
Hours: M-Th 5:30pm-10pm; F-Sa 5:30pm-11pm; Sunday 5pm-9pm; Brunch daily until 3pm
Features: Outdoor Dining, Brunch, Carryout
Avg. Price of a Meal for two including drinks and tax $90
Chef: Debbie Sharpe
Website: www.feastrestaurant.com
Comments