Marketing to a narrowly defined niche can be a tricky thing, particularly if what you’re selling is not immediately associated with your target audience. In the case of avid bicyclists one does not immediately think of food and drink. Inner tubes, reflective clothing, panniers, yes. But food and drink? Handlebar established itself on the premise that its comestibles would be particularly well suited to cyclists. Hmm, now what would that be? As it turns out, Handlebar knows it audience. Vegetarian and vegan dishes abound, appealing to the health conscious natures of people who employ their muscles and lungs in getting around.
Offering an equal balance of appetizers, salads, entrees and sandwiches, Handlebar draws from the complete ethnic playbook. West African ground nut stew is a protein rich, organically pure mélange of sweet potato, coconut, zucchini and kale with brown rice and peanuts. Applewood smoked tofu stirs together quinoa, swiss chard, pickled tomatoes and zesty tomato-shallot sauce in an unlikely but delicious ethnic mash-up. And savory Seitan stuffed tortellini takes off from the Italian, incorporating butternut squash pureè, sautéed spinach and toasted hazelnuts to create a distinctly American pasta that is also unobtrusively vegan. If vegetarian is your thing there are few restaurants in Chicago more inventive and satisfying.
Yet you never really feel you’re in a vegetarian restaurant when you’re at Handlebar. And this may be the genius of Handlebar’s marketing. If it seems focused on an impossibly narrow customer base, it’s not exactly ballyhooing its vegetarian pedigree, even though vegetarian and vegan is exactly what it does – and does well. The owners seem to comprehend that labeling yourself vegetarian (and particularly vegan) can be off putting to those who like a little red meat once in awhile. Thus, the focus is squarely on the health conscious customers, not the deliberately restricted palette of ingredients.
And Handlebar is not above catering to a broader definition of vegetarianism, doing wonderful things with catfish and tilapia, and ladling up jack cheese and sour cream in bold defiance of any militant vegans that may happen in. Handlebar is more about serving good healthy food than about digging a defensive redoubt against fish hooks and milking machines.
Eight quality craft brews are on offer, having been selected by someone who clearly knows beer and who changes them out regularly for seasonal favorites and up-and-comers. In the cooler are 25 more well-considered beers and the wine is not an afterthought either, underscoring Handlebar’s standard for giving thoughtful consideration to all they serve.
One could only wish that the same care extended to how it was served. Handlebar’s sluggish, laconic service is of the kind prevalent in college coffee shops. They’ll get to you when it’s convenient for them. In the summer months, when the backyard beer garden is open, one of the bartenders is left to service the entire front room of some 16 tables. It’s as if you are in an old man’s bar and the owner turns up to take your order for a grilled cheese sandwich in between pouring rounds of Old Style. If you press them, they'll break snarky on you. It just doesn’t fit with Handlebar’s emphasis on quality in the kitchen.
The ambiance is standard brick and hardwood prettied up with artwork from local artists. Oddly it always seems a bit cold inside (perhaps a concession to the overheated cyclists who’ve racked up their bikes before coming in). The outdoor garden is large and welcoming.
Handlebar has some of the best vegetarian food in the city, and the price tag is easy on the wallet. It markets itself as a haven for cyclists but you don’t have to be a cyclist to enjoy it. It’s really just a bar and grill for health conscious people with taste, and there’s nothing off putting about that.
Handlebar
2311 W. North Ave.
773-384-9546 / Reservations Not Accepted
Hours: M-W 11am-Midnight; Th-F 11am-2am; Sa 10am-2am; Su 10am-Midnight (Brunch)
Features: Outdoor Dining, Carryout
Avg. Price of a Meal for two including drinks and tax $49
Website: http://handlebarchicago.com
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