We slipped into Las Palmas on a chilly November evening and took a seat before the cozy fireplace. The waiter appeared promptly and took our drink orders. My companion was able to choose from a selection of decent wines by the glass and I got my choice of Mexican beers, including Bohemia and Pacifico, as well as Tecate, Dos Equis, Corona and Modelo. Also available for consumption, 50 tequilas. They were certainly covering their bases and staying on message. So far so good.
The main dining room was bright and colorful with large wall posters, papel picado banners festooned across the ceiling and a sprawling multi-hued mural behind the bar. All in all, warm and whimsically ethnic, nicely put together.
A peek into the back room revealed a greenhouse-like space capable of filling with sunlight, a promising daytime resort, and beyond that an outdoor patio for summer dining under the stars. Good stuff.
For starters we tried the trio of ceviches, a delightful variety of treatments, each distinct and tasty, imbued with its own blend of citrus and spices, not exquisite perhaps but certainly very good and worth ordering again.
On the waiter’s recommendation I went for the gimmicky Molcajete, a lava rock bowl sizzling with chicken, scallions, grilled cactus and sticks of Chihuahua cheese that were slowly melting into a gooey amalgam that is the sort of thing used to fill a quesadilla. The addition of black refried beans and tortillas didn’t raise this much above a decent sports bar appetizer. But the Marrano Cafetalero was inspired, a grilled pork tenderloin glazed with organic Mexican fair trade coffee and rum. The flavors came through with subtlety and grace, the meat was moist and properly grilled, and the side of spicy tobacco onions added a zesty crunch that added to the appeal.
I was heartened by the creativity in Las Palmas’ dishes, even if it sometimes took the form of dressing up fairly typical Mexican dishes. At least here was a restaurant devoted to its cuisine and not lured away by the urge to appeal to a broader demographic. They seemed willing to delve deeper into their area of expertise and explore it for new ideas and approaches, a sign of enthusiasm and integrity that almost always signifies good things. And they were unfailingly competent in their cooking, service and presentation.
Las Palmas may not elicit unqualified accolades but their devotion to quality Mexican cooking in a comfortable and authentic ambiance is enough to earn them a return trip from us… maybe two or three.
Las Palmas
1835 W. North Ave.
773-289-4991 / Reservations Accepted
Hours: M-Th 5pm-10pm, F-Sa 5pm-12am, Su 10am-3pm & 4pm-10pm
Features: Outdoor Dining, Brunch, Live Music, Carryout, Delivery, Private Party Facilities
Avg price of a meal for two including drinks and tax $85
Website: http://laspalmaschicago.com
I'm confused - what's gimmicky about molcajete?
Posted by: js | April 21, 2009 at 12:08 PM