Le Bouchon strives for authenticity and achieves it, but at the expense of the bold stroke. Little here can be characterized as startlingly original. What you get instead is as close an approximation to a genuine French bistro as you’re likely to find anywhere Chicago, which is not a bad thing. For the diner seeking the familiar or traditional it’s just what the doctor ordered.
Here you’ll find a savory onion tart with an agreeable crust that combines nicely with a good Bordeaux. Or escargot with just the right amount of garlic and parsley so it enhances the flavor of the snails without masking them. The brandade of cod is pleasantly fishy, a creamy combination of smoked fish, olive oil, milk and garlic croutons, browned on the top and ever so rich. We had to stop eating it to avoid becoming full before our main courses arrived.
The roasted duck for two with wild rice and orange reduction was cooked properly with orange rind and the best ingredients. The skin was nicely roasted and not at all greasy, although the duck was perhaps a bit overcooked. The pommes frites grilled steak w/ house butter and home-made fries was as good as could be wanted, which is to say as good as any competent French bistro would make it. And that’s just it. Le Bouchon does not disappoint when it comes to what’s expected, but neither does it transcend.
Admittedly, with “traditional” cuisine it’s all about adhering to convention, and perhaps no cuisine is as traditional as French. However, traditional French chefs do distinguish themselves, if not with experimentation, than with superior execution; and here again Le Bouchon does not shine. Don’t get me wrong, Le Bouchon is not in any way inferior. Quite to the contrary, they are very good at what they do – just not amazing. They are more authentic than extraordinary.
And the ambiance is as authentic as the food: tiled floors, dark wood wainscoting, gas lamp style sconces and white table cloths. The waiter arrives in his apron, drying his hands on a towel. A server brings the duck out from the kitchen for your inspection before they take it back to slice it. Your wine glass is refilled with regularity. It’s all very correct and satisfying, as well as warm and charming.
However, the service can sometimes be considered typically French as well. Other reviewers have complained of rudeness. Although that was not our experience, the service we received could in no way be construed as warm.
For traditional French bistro cuisine in an authentic setting, Le Bouchon hits all the marks. Yet it is distinguished by its faithfulness to that tradition, not by its ability to rise above it.
Le Bouchon
1958 N. Damen Ave.
773-862-6600 / Reservations Recommended
Hours: M-Th 5:30pm-11:00pm; F-Sa 5pm-12am; Closed Sunday
Avg. price of a meal for two including drinks and tax $120.00
Chef: Jean Claude Poilevey
Website: www.lebouchonofchicago.com
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