The leggy blondes with the big silicone boobs watched the drug bust on the street in front of Loft 610 with avid interest. It was cool, seeing a real life drug bust, like an episode of Cops coming to life right in front of you.
They turned heads all right, those blondes, with their tight mini-skirts, spiky heels and prominent cleavage but they were all flash and no substance, standing there smoking their cigs as the cops patted down the perp who stood spread-eagled against the hood of a car. The evening was just getting started at Loft 610 and this was a minor diversion, a side show. The real show was about to start when the blondes sauntered into the club and began parrying the advances of dozens of horny guys looking to score. Such guys wouldn’t be looking for depth or character in their quarry. They wouldn’t be paying attention to the finer things. And they wouldn't be terribly particular about the drinks.
Maybe it’s because Loft 610’s daring inclusiveness, its no cover, no dress code and no attitude approach totally eliminates the filter that keeps some people away, but this is a place that while making a gallant effort to bring its customers something of style and substance, is already creating the circumstances that will make that unnecessary.
The drinks at Loft 610 have been accused of being mediocre, disappointingly rendered and watered down. That must drive the majority partner, Brad Tice, around the bend as he has designed the place to be an altar to the infallible supremacy of Maker’s Mark, a quality bourbon that he loves and would obviously like you to try. Not only are there decorative wall niches showcasing Maker’s Mark bottles, there are Makers and beer cocktails, and a Maker’s BBQ sauce for the appetizers. The man is an evangelist for all things Makers, so it must stick in his craw to hear negative comments about his cocktails.
Tice also seems committed to providing decent nosh. He and his partners, who are the brains behind Cortland’s Garage, Goodbar and The Stretch, have tapped former Brasserie Ruhlman chef Roxanne Spruance to create an intriguing menu heavy on the booze. There are pretzel bites with Guiness cheese dip, beer battered onion rings and lamb lollipops with the aforementioned Makers BBQ sauce. We tucked into the double dipped fish and chips and the Grand Marnier Roasted Chicken. All in all, the food was pretty good for a nightclub. But, sadly, most club goers weren’t partaking. They were there to mingle and dance. Ms. Spruance’s efforts were underappreciated.
In an effort to reach for a little class, Loft 610 has eschewed the usual flat screens. The music is front and center here. But the music can be bewildering. Sure, there’s the usual hip-hop mixed with recent faves from Lady Ga Ga, but a reliance on too much 80’s power pop has made more than a few clubbies stop mid crank and cast a stink eye on the DJ who operates from an elevated DJ booth accessible only by a ladder.
In addition to the crow’s nest that safeguards the DJ from those who can’t appreciate Journey and Bon Jovi, the décor at Loft 610 has some other interesting elements. A walnut bar, custom iron work and leather tufted booths add style and grace to the industrial feel of the exposed duct work, brick walls and two story windows.
The wallpaper in the loft upstairs could’ve been cribbed from Happy Village, an old man’s bar in Ukie Village where the exact same wallpaper has hung unchanged since 1962. There it elicits smiles for being so charmingly out of style. Here it is considered stylish and cool. Maybe it’s time to bring back Jackie’s pillbox hat.
That reference would be lost on many of the patrons of Loft 610. I’m going to go out on a limb here and assume that the silicone enhanced blondes watching the drug bust would have an entirely different interpretation of pillbox hat. Whatever. Loft 610’s come-one-come-all policy seeks to do away with the velvet rope and is determinedly anti-hipster. That’s good, I suppose. Who doesn’t like a little democracy? But the problem is, when you throw away the filter you invite a critical mass of undiscriminating trade on whom most of your efforts at discernment and subtlety are lost.
For some time to come the folks behind Loft 610 will probably try to maintain a stylish, sophisticated appeal showcasing the things they love, like Makers Mark, 80’s power pop and liquor laced nosh, but when they discover that the majority of their clientele isn’t really paying attention and would rather just watch TV and hit on hot blondes, they may find that style over substance sells just as well and requires a lot less effort.
When the flat screens go up and the food gets dumbed down, you’ll know they’ve thrown in the towel.
Loft 610
1332 N. Milwaukee
773-904-8615 / Reservations Accepted for Groups
Hours: 5pm-2am Su-F, 5pm-3am Sa. Hours subject to change.
Features: No Cover, Open Late, Outdoor Dining, DJ
Avg Price of a Meal for Two Including Drinks and Tax: $75
Website: www.loft610chicago.com
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