There’s a difference between an Italian-American restaurant and a restaurant run by an Italian who happens to be in America, and the difference is transparently clear at Lucias. A true Italian cares more about the food – much more – than about the décor. While Italian-Americans are typically at pains to make the ambiance appropriate, an ethnic Italian may say, “It’s a delicatessen during the day, so what? At night we put some screens up so you don’t see the Pepsi machine so much, we put tablecloths on the tables, some candles, everything’s fine.”
On the other hand, while the Italian-American might be inclined to buy some ingredients pre-made, the ethnic Italian would be horrified at such an idea. Everything has to be made from fresh ingredients in house, with tender loving care invested in each step. The service has to be assiduous and the owner has to be omnipresent, overseeing the whole operation like an orchestra conductor, always accountable to his patrons because he’s right there in front of them.
The difference between Italian-American and American-Italian is night and day, and one you can experience at Lucia’s. It’s the same Italian fare; ie, pasta, pesce, veal and anti-pasta, but it’s the difference between hearing a rock song and hearing a symphony. One is brash and earthy while the other is intricate and refined. Lucia’s is a symphony.
The carpaccio al manzo is thin slices of raw sirloin with arugula and parmesan shavings, but here it’s thicker than the paper thin beef you get at many restaurants and bursting with flavor. The fettucini al gorgonzola is fresh and homemade, a notable difference, cooked to perfection and endowed with mushrooms, sausage and sundried tomatoes. All the ingredients are first rate and the sausage is spicy and delicious. The saltimbocca of veal scallopini topped with prosciutto di parma and fresh sage makes your eyebrows lift at the first bite, the flavor is sensational.
Lucia’s main courses are cooked with great attention to detail and presented with an earnest desire to please. Even in the small things, Lucias excels. The table bread arrives fresh and hot from the oven. The water glasses are filled with meticulous regularity. The tomatoes in the salads are fresh and crisp to the bite. The homemade salad dressing is delicious and beguiling. The service is flawless. It’s hard to see how this could be improved upon.
Even the fact that it’s BYOB works in its favor, as there is a wine store next door and no corkage fee. This works wonders in keeping the bill within budget.
The only thing I could hope for is a larger, warmer space. The main room, accessed through a congested corridor past the rest rooms and kitchen is bright with large murals but oddly L-shaped. The overflow is seated upfront in a narrow slot of a room that gives off the back of the delicatessen that for some reason still holds the position of prominence in this business, showing its face to the street. I find it hard to believe that the delicatessen is the best thing about Lucias, not when so many other good things are going on in the dining rooms behind it.
Nevertheless, Lucia’s cavalier use of its space is a small matter compared to all its fine qualities. If I want to enjoy a well laid out Italian restaurant, there are plenty of them in Wicker Park/Bucktown. But if I want to eat fresh, homemade Italian food, prepared by a genuine ethnic Italian whose unwavering devotion to quality shines through in every bite, there is only Lucia’s.
Lucia’s
1825 W. North Ave.
773-292-9700 / Reservations Accepted
Hours: M-Th 5pm-10pm; F-Sa 5pm-11pm; Su 4pm-9pm
Features: Outdoor Dining, BYOB, Carryout
Avg price of a meal for two including tax $90
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