Minimalism is maximized at Mado. From the spare décor to the stripped down small plates of vegetables, meats and cheeses, Mado reduces everything to its essence, which is often, but not always, commendable. To make it all work Mado uses only the freshest ingredients from artisanal sources and proudly displays its growers on a large blackboard that covers most of one wall.
The blackboard is yet another attempt at minimalism, one that went awry as near-sighted diners demanded something closer to hand and were obliged. Which makes one wonder how long Mado can keep this up, since a willingness to evolve must be in direct conflict with a devotion to minimalism.
For example, what will Mado do about its non-descript brick storefront and understated sign when diners can’t find the place? Presumably, a more prominent street presence will be in order, to the detriment of minimalism. And what will Mado do about its garage-like interior, its exposed brick walls made only slightly less stark by the addition of a few darkly colored contemporary paintings? And what will they do about the tiny halogen spotlights that throw a disconcerting mix of light and shadow over everything?
And, as good as the food is, how many diners will regard a plate of organic peas – about fifteen peas in all – at a price of $4, as a little too much for peas, and demand more. What will Mado do? Perhaps they will offer more assortments as they do presently with their meat platter, consisting of teasa crostini, country patè, mado salame and lamb neck terrine, which are all fine but cannot be eaten properly without also ordering the plate of grilled bread, grain mustard and pickled turnips, priced separately. One finds oneself racking up quite a bill for precious little.
Okay, so it’s not about filling up. It’s about relishing every morsel, savoring the exquisite freshness, appreciating the delicate flavors and textures of expertly grown foods nakedly served: a plate of carrots and beets; arugula with radishes, almonds, lemon and mint; a bruschetta of chick peas with chillies and mints; a smoked steelhead trout with beets and chives. It is all quite good, although none of it is particularly memorable.
Employing artisanal ingredients is not groundbreaking. They are doing the same farm-to-table thing at Hot Chocolate and The Bristol with a richer palette and bolder flourishes. So Mado’s contribution is its unabashed minimalism. Will it be enough?
Maybe, but only if they make no mistakes. The food has got to be flawless, and so far they are carrying it off. Curiously, however, the best thing at Mado was the one area where they blend the ingredients more aggressively, dessert. The almond galette with summer berries and whip cream was deemed outstanding by our little group. The dates with coffee, cardamom, buffalo ricotta and walnuts was uniformly praised.
If they can synthesize ingredients to such good affect, perhaps the stripped down, stand alone nature of the current main course offerings is only the first step in an evolutionary process that will see more aggressive merging of flavors later.
It seems that Mado is going to have to evolve, and signs are good that they will do so. Like listening to an exquisitely talented solo artist, the current approach has its charms, but we yearn to hear the same artist in a duet or, better yet, in a full orchestra.
Mado
1647 N. Milwaukee Ave
773-342-2340 / Reservations Recommended
Hours: T-T 8am-10pm, F-Sa 8am-12am, Su 8am-9pm, Closed Monday
Features: BYOB, Brunch (Sunday only), Carryout
Avg. Price of a Meal for two including tax $55
Chefs: Robert and Allison Levitt
Website: www.madorestaurantchicago.com
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