There’s something raucously naughty about the idea of a tequila lounge. The whole idea suggests a Sergio Leone-like ambiance – grizzled bandito’s narrowing their eyes and ordering drinks in gruff undertones – gussied up for the Lincoln Park set. Not quite The Rainforest Café but close. One can easily imagine noisy frat boys hunched over the johns, a Wrigleyville holler house with a Disney-like twist, all of it lubricated by an immoderate desire to “get the worm”.
That’s why we were pleasantly surprised by Salud Tequila Lounge. On a Thursday night in February it was blessedly restrained, comfortably cozy, more cool lounge than tequila bar, nary a frat boy or bandito in sight. The warm gold and burnished copper décor was tastefully decorated in Spanish accents, the plush half circle booths with timber and parchment table tops were stylish yet rustic. The dozen or so wall niches behind the bar housed individual bottles of tequila underlit with an elegant museum-like glow. It was all very classy and refined. And then we dined.
After all, Salud is just a lounge; there is little attention paid to the food. Although the menu offers the usual fajitas, tacos and guac, nothing stands out, some items are marginally substandard and there is even a bit of a fraud lingering there under the specialties list. Quick, tell me what this is: Macho Barracho, 8 oz. ground beef or chicken infused with tequila, topped with Chihauhua cheese, guacamole and pico de gallo. By any another name, it’s a cheeseburger – a Mexi-burger if you like. And a fairly average one at that. But why the smokescreen? Could it be that Salud wants you to think the food here is more special than it is?
The empanadas of chopped shrimp, cream cheese, scallions and hearts of palm were up to snuff, once you bit through the rather flavorless baked pastry. Ditto the portabella, goat cheese and sautéed garlic. The pastry added nothing. But where Salud really fell down was with the fajitas, uninspired, nearly bland (if that’s possible with fajitas). The fajitas at your local Chili’s put this effort to shame.
On the other hand, Salud excels where its heart is. The house specialty Cadillac Tequila is as smooth and compelling as the menu implies and that’s just the beginning. Salud offers more than 75 premium 100% aguave tequilas, many from small artisanal producers tucked away in the highlands of Jalisco. For anyone looking to savor one of the world’s most complex spirits, Salud will be your guide.
Brought to you by the people who gave you Evil Olive and Cans, it’s no surprise that the focus is on the drinks. But there is a higher degree of refinement here than you find at those other places. Mindless frat boys pounding hard liquor are not the target demographic, although a few may wander in from time to time. Instead, Salud reaches for a more sophisticated palate, at least when it comes to tequila.
As for the food, a grizzled bandito would never be able to tell the difference.
Salud Tequila Lounge
1471 N. Milwaukee
773-235-5577 / Reservations Accepted
Hours: M-F 5pm-2am; Sa 5pm-2:30am; Closed Sundays (winter only)
Features: Outdoor Dining, Late Night Dining, Lounge Scene
Avg. Price of a Meal for Two Including Drinks and Tax $75
Website: www.saludlounge.com
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