The guy behind the counter could’ve bellowed out our order more loudly. That would’ve made it more like New York. Other than that, however, Santullo’s Eatery was pretty much an authentic New York style pizza parlor. From the big floppy slices oozing oily cheese to the tattooed character at the cash register with the phone tucked against his shoulder as he meted out our change, they had it down.
We sat down at a wooden booth. Spots of dried tomato sauce and a scattering of crumbs made us opt for a high boy. Along with a half dozen other people we waited. Most of the others were there for the carryout. They lingered, gazing up idly at the chalkboard behind the counter, contemplating the various pizza’s of the day, a different style for each day of the week. Most interesting of all were $2 slices between 4pm-6pm Monday through Friday, a generous offer. Over in the corner the prep man was tossing a great wheel of dough in the air, catching it and lofting it again, spinning it, just as they do in the Big Apple.
When our order was called out, we collected it from the counter and tucked into food that was up to snuff not only as a true approximation of a New York pizza parlor but as decent red sauce Italian generally. Having expected something rather bland and characterless for the price, my companion was pleasantly surprised by the zesty kick of the spaghetti and meatballs. Our spinach salad was liberally bestowed with walnuts, goat cheese and sun dried tomatoes. And the pizza was certainly satisfactory, best eaten folded over, making for a soft bite through a mild crust and into a yummy layer of cheese and tomato. Taken altogether, we felt we were getting good Italian – in some ways indistinguishable from that served in pricier restaurants – for a rock bottom price.
The food at Santullo’s Eatery isn’t going to win any awards but it doesn’t have to. Santullo’s competes with other take out joints for the quick bite and munchie striken late night crowd (it’s open until 3am Friday and Saturday), and on that level it excels. In addition to pizza slices, spaghetti and salads, Santullo’s offers sub sandwiches, as well as beer and wine. It will provide a quick, satisfying repast to any danced out clubster from Ohm or hoarse shouter for encores from Subterranean at a good price. For them a little encrusted tomato sauce on the table won’t be a deal breaker. Hell, if they’re from the Big Apple they might even see it as an extra touch of authenticity.
Santullo’s Eatery
1943 W. North Ave.
773-227-7960 / Reservations Not Accepted
Hours: Thur 11am-2am; F-Sa 11am-3am; Su-Th 11am-10pm
Features: Carryout, Delivery
Avg. Price of a Meal for Two Including Drinks and Tax $23
Website: www.santullos.com
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