Spring is one of the culinary gems of Wicker Park. The flagship restaurant of celebrated chef, Shawn McClain, Spring was doing artisanal when others were just getting it on the drawing board. Today, there are plenty of farm-to-table artisanal restaurants in WP/BT, most at prices lower than Spring, but McClain’s passion for recapturing true flavor and embracing authenticity while combining it with Asian influences still places Spring on a plane higher than most of its competitors.
Originally focused on seafood, Spring has broadened its palette and now devotes itself to exploring artisanal craftsmanship wherever it can be found from beef and produce, to cheese, bread and wine. McClain’s insistence on quality ingredients from small producers is elevated by a flair for innovation, a combination that exemplifies the best of WP/BT dining.
The chestnut beignets with Warp Farms greens, heirloom apples and cider-chili vinaigrette is an inspired combination of flavors and textures, sweet, rich, crispy, crunchy, pillowy and delectable. The Maslaspina oysters with black pepper and cucumber mignonette, Tabasco and citrus caviar are a cool, clean collation with a bit of a kick. For a creamy, redolent bisque with an Asian touch, the lemongrass and coconut soup is unrivaled.
A main course of smoked trout with creamy polenta, brioche, almonds and brown butter doesn’t rise as high as one might expect from a kitchen that prides itself on a longstanding expertise with fish. However, their handling of braised beef short rib, tortellini, black mission fig compote and port grastique is outstanding, a savory dish with just the right hint of sweetness.
The desserts at Spring are not as remarkable as other restaurants of their caliber, but their wine list is top-notch and their specialty cocktails are well-conceived and nicely executed.
Spring is a great place to enjoy a drink, even if you’re not dining. The warm, Zen like entry with its sculpted sand and rock garden descends into a sophisticated lounge area where walls of white glazed brick blend pleasantly with a flagstone floor and a zig-zag bar to combine colors and textures in a cool, classy way. The dining room carries Francois Geneve’s interior design forward, making the most of the materials used in the former Russian Bathhouse in which Spring is housed. The ambiance is civilized yet edgy, much like McClain’s outstanding cuisine.
Spring now has many competitors in WP/BT, a vertiable a who’s who of name chefs working with artisanal ingredients in exciting and creative ways, yet Spring remains a bellwether, a daring leader in the kind of cuisine for which the neighborhood is justly renowned.
Spring
2039 W. North Ave.
773-395-7100 / Reservations recommended
T-Th 5:30pm-9:30pm; F-Sa 5:30pm-10:30pm; 5:30pm-9:00pm Su; Closed Monday
Features: Private party facilities
Avg price of a meal for two including drinks and tax $160.00
Chef: Shawn McClain
Website: www.springrestaurant.net
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